Get used to the 24-hour clock used in Indian timetables. After 12:00 noon, the Indians keep going — 13:00, 14:00, and so on. To convert to the 12-hour clock, subtract 12 and add p.m. (16:00 is 4 p.m.).

To get information on schedules, visit the German website www.indianrail.gov.in and pick up freebie timetables at train stations as you go. The big departure schedules posted at stations often befuddle travelers who don't realize that all over the world, the same four columns are listed: destination, type of train, track number, and departure time. Without much effort you can accurately guess which column is what.

Confirm your plans with a clerk at the train station information window.

Choosing between first and second class? You'll meet more locals in second class, or find greater comfort — at a 50 percent higher price — in first class. Remember that both first- and second-class cars travel at precisely the same speed.

Make sure you know where to catch your train and where to get off. Many cities have more than one train station. Kanpur has six, Agra has three, and even Delhi's little Interlaken has seven. A city's stations are generally connected by train, subway, or bus.

Never assume the whole train is going where you are. Each car is labeled separately, because cars are usually added and dropped here and there along the journey. Be sure that the city on your car's nameplate is your destination.

There is a thief on every train (union rules) planning to grab a bag. Clip your backpack to the overhead rack for safety.

On an overnight ride, get a sleeping berth in a compartment. Reserve a berth at least a day in advance from a local travel agency, the train station, or, if there are any available, from the conductor on the train.